I’m often asked about my favourite hotels to visit in the country. But if you ask me, I’d tweak that question to the top ten rooms in my favourite properties in India, because as much as my husband and travel partner might disagree, the room we pick is weirdly important to me.
Before I dive in though, this is not sponsored content, so you can take my word for each of these reccos. Having said that, I do know the owners of most of these hotels so you're welcome to refer my name when making a booking...they might be happy to give you a deal. Read on, and happy travels (when you can)!
My parents were quite the travellers (still are), and thanks to my dad’s postings as part of the forest services, we spent a lot of time in big, remote guest houses in the most stunning spots of the country. Hours of leisure whiled away in lush green jungles and national forests. My brother and I always accompanied my parents on their travels and developed a love of it early on. Maybe it was because of a dad who wouldn’t treat us like kids and who encouraged us to explore the outdoors on our own, try to understand the local ecosystem, eat the local fare, chase wild chicken, climb trees, jump into wild forest streams.
Ben and I also organise yearly “Old Etonian” dinners in the Indian Subcontinent which means we’re always on the lookout for the best places to get all our friends together, and I’ve been very fortunate to have had access to some unbelievable hotels thanks to the alumni.
To be clear, here’s what I look for in the perfect stay at a hotel...
A massive room with high ceilings and slightly ignored, printed curtains. This room immediately feels like home as it is exactly the shabby chic that tugs at my heart and makes me smile. A sheet of dust covers the top shelves, and a few cobwebs here and there all add to the charm. I can see the lake from my bed and the bathroom. I often get into a suit, open the windows, and sit in the bath with a glass of champagne to enjoy the sunset.
The ramparts of Bal Samand overlooking the lake is my favourite sunset spot and I’ve spent some magical, memorable evenings there. The hotel too has some of the most beautiful non-manicured gardens and a lovely swimming pool. The interiors are very old school India — somewhat overlooked, but aren't trying to be anyone else, which says so much to me. The staff is the warmest bunch, and a stylish one too — their uniforms are to die for, and on the Kebab Corner menu, so are the naan and dal makhani. Beware of losing your way after a few drinks though — the property is massive.
The first time I visited Ahilya was when Ben and I were just dating. It was for the aforementioned OE dinner (and did mention I was pregnant with Jasper?). We sailed across the river Narmada with a bar boat attached to our boat with 3000 lamps floating in the river along with us. There were goosebumps. Surreal. I told Ben that even my dad hadn’t taken me somewhere that soulful — a huge compliment. I won’t lie, it totally helped close the deal with him (wink).
Needless to say, I hold a special place for Ahilya in my heart ever since. Must be true what they say about the small temple in the river being the centre of the earth and a portal in time existing somewhere around — at least that’s the local myth that goes around. (Ben laughed his head off the last time I said this but I have now said it 59972 times and that must make it more believable?!)
I also had the most delicious quail biryani here which I tried to replicate — albeit unsuccessfully — back at home in Bangalore (they grow most of their produce on their organic farms though, which perhaps explains why). This place itself is magic. Why else would they have a gang of pugs guarding the fort at all times (yes, seriously).
The Narmada Suite itself feels like you are suspended in a room mid-air above the river (exactly where that mythical centre of the earth is, just saying), while the temple bells chime, the chants of the evening aarti are carried up, and people swim and pray on the banks.
I also enjoy going for walks along the river and watching everything on the banks. The last time I was there, I had the most amazing evening watching the sun go down behind the temples, its sounds spilling around me, drowning myself in Abida’s voice singing Kabir with that view.
Special mention to Kunta Bai for introducing me to this suite and making sure I got to spend a night in it. The staff is great, and they let you be at your own pace. Also, don’t forget to check out Mandu, a place close to Maheshwar, and one of the most interesting in the country if you ask me.
An 18th century fort with amazing painting and arches, this is what living and sleeping amidst history feels like. While Ranvas is an oasis in the middle of the town of Nagaur, with the ramparts overlooking the town, the room itself is huge — we’re talking actual palace room sizes here. The hotel has the most gorgeous spots to dine at, and lose yourself in. The courtyards and sitout by the room are perfect to laze in and read all day. They have a beautiful pool and serve the best bloody Marys by it. My most beautiful time there was listening to someone play the sitar at the Deepak Mahal, and next to the Bavli, dancing to Annie Lenox till 4 am.
The staff was so warm and kind, they packed me dry rabori (a local dish) with the recipe for rabori kanda when I left. The women working at the hotel took me to their local bangle shops where I shopped for bangles that I still wear.
If there was an award for attention to detail, I would give it to these guys. The warmest, softest, fuzziest beds — and extra points for the right size of pillows and embroidery that matches the room and crockery impeccably. The colours are exactly right — they’re there, but they don’t disturb you — just sort of remind you how when colours are done well, they feel natural. The sitting room with the table in the Sona Suite was perfect to get some work done while the dressing room made sure stuff didn’t spill into the bedroom. Everything is covered in sweet little fabric covers and the floors still have the charm of a bygone era. Perfect daylight in the room and enough space for people watching through the windows.
Staff so kind and welcoming that I want to go back to see their smiling familiar faces. They let you have your space while making sure you’re attended to in a few seconds if you need anything. Also, I haven’t seen a more thorough room cleaning (housekeeping) in any hotel I have stayed at — the staff only enters the rooms after taking their shoes off. Food highlight? Their jamun kulfi is the best sorbet I have ever had.
This is the only hotel with a real soul that I've found in the Andamans. It is entirely removed from the creeping urbanization of Havelock.
The design and architecture of Jalakara is incredible by any standards, and deserves a special mention. The rooms are so beautifully put together that they leave you wanting a house exactly like that. The swimming pool with the bar makes the heart of the place incredibly warm, relaxed and fun.
The Cottage is a remarkable suite with a private plunge pool and a dream copper bath in a huge bathroom. Some walls in the room allow for fantastic light and shadow play. Great momos and fun nights at the bar by the pool.
Sher Bagh is located right next to the Aman Ranthambore, but give me Sher Bagh any day. There’s something about going on a wildlife holiday in a tent that needs 20 tonnes of air conditioning that doesn’t quite make sense to me.
The white cotton and canvas tents at Sher Bagh, on the other hand, are the perfect size and are immaculately put together with huge double beds, handmade furniture and a fully functioning bathroom. The camp itself is pitched in a forest of Dhoks, with the camp-fire as the focal point, around which you could easily stay until dawn.
My husband also gets very excited about the owner’s Anglophilic tastes, including furniture from Holland & Holland, and an unlimited supply of Pimms, which makes for the perfect apres-tiger.
Speaking of which, my whole childhood was spent in jeeps, driving around different national parks, looking for tigers. Ranthambore is really the best place to see these incredible creatures because there is so little undergrowth for them to hide in. If you’re lucky, you can even see them wandering through the ruins of old palaces.
This fort is still not open to the public but soon will be. The first time I went to Diggi Fort was when no rooms were ready and I instantly felt at home. Diggi, I have come to realise, is home for me; even when I’m in Jaipur, this is where I stay — same room, every time, and the staff knows all my habits — everything is exactly the way I like it. There is always music flowing out of my room while Mohabbat Singhji tells me his stories. Not to forget, the long night walks I take in my favourite lawn, with my headphones on and my dressing gown. It’s always quiet there and I love the eighteen peacocks who also call the property home. It’s all a big part of my work journey, and I am forever grateful for it.
This is where Ben and I went on our first holiday when I/we wasn’t owning up to being in a relationship (at this point, this is becoming a timeline of our love story, but here we go). We decided on a Friday evening that it would be nice to do the weekend there and took off. It was the monsoons, and monsoon is still my favourite time of the year to be there.
Charlotte and Simon who run the place feel like old friends, and I never feel like I’m staying at a hotel. The house is full of books and nooks to read them in. On most stays, I try to cook a few things in the hotel kitchen for everyone, which they let me do so wonderfully. The staff has seen Jasper grow up, since when he was a wee 2 month old to a big 8 year old boy now — quite special. It’s the old Portuguese style of Goa that I thoroughly enjoy. The swimming pool is best enjoyed with pouring rain, and makes for a great midnight gossip spot. I forget the number of pink drinks and nimbu panis I consume while I am there, but isn’t that the point?
Bhutan undoubtedly is one of my favourite places in the world. If I could, I’d spend 3 months a year in Bhutan. The food, the people, the place, and how you feel while you’re there is simply beautiful.
The heritage hotel called the Gangtey Palace that I stayed at there was beyond charming. The owners, as charming as the hotel. The gardens, tended by someone who loves, cares and understands flowers. The hotel, still in it’s bygone glory, old and authentic with lots of stories to tell.
Steep staircase leads to the main suite with a beautiful view of the courtyard on one side and the mountains on the other. Jasper and I have been planning our reading holiday to Gangtey, but unfortunately, it remains shut since we planned this.
I particularly remember the staff making a bhel out of Wai Wai (yum) at 2 am while we were drinking at the cozy bar and helping Jasper wear a gho every morning. Bhutanese people are special, and the management and staff at this hotel likewise. I can’t wait to go back.
Any room at this hotel is glorious, to be honest. I’ve always loved the tea gardens and get wistful about India not having enough beautiful hotels in the tea gardens of Darjeeling, Assam or the Nilgiris. Ben’s dream is to live on a tea garden in a beautiful house with enough rooms to host family and friends.
Ceylon Tea Trails have colonial bungalows done up in a non-colonial way, based on architecture and styles of yore, and done up impeccably at that, with soulful views everywhere you look. The hills are verdant with tea plantations, rooms heated with fireplaces, and every bungalow comes with a common room and a bar that’s the perfect setting for holidaying with friends.
